Saturday, July 18, 2009

Road Trip for Olives and ....

Dear Friends and Family

As the sun rose over Table Mountain at 7:30 this morning, I rolled out from under two comforters. It was 42F degrees (5C), a brisk and beautiful sunny winter day after five days of rain.

The beautiful skies convinced Floyd and I that we should go on a mini trip out to the Kloovenberg Wine Estate about an hour and a half from Cape Town to pick up their wonderful black olives. And, of course, if we were going to Riebeek Kasteel for olives we had to go by way of Malmsbury to the Lammershoek Estate to visit the vintner Albert and pick up some of our favorite South African wines. This trip is always an active decision, because the estate is 7 km each way down a bumpy dirt road.

Carla was there and didn’t disappoint us. Albert had a beautifully crisp white Chenin Blanc that we think we sipped out of the cask last winter. It had aged wonderfully and Carla told us, unlike other white vintages, the Lammershoek white wines are better when kept for a year after bottling. The Chenin had been in the bottle about six months and was well on its way to perfection. By the way, the estate logo says, “Therefore we drink wine.” Someone had a fine sense of humor.

Then it was on Riebeck Kasteel for a late lunch. Along the road, the soy beans were in full bloom with yellow flowers waving on green stalks. And the land was beautiful shades of lush greens and gold, with long winter shadows. In the distant mountains, you could see snow. We hadn’t brought a camera but we did have our cell phone, so Floyd was able to take this picture of the distant mountains from the valley floor. The vineyards are in the foreground, the olive groves to the left, and the small town is around the corner. This is the Riebeek Valley, a basic Western Cape agricultural area.

After a lovely lamb lunch in this very quaint town it was a short drive to the outskirts of town for olives. Along the Kloovenberg fence rows, white roses bloomed. The roses entice the bees into the vineyards where they pollinate the vines and fruit trees. Like Lammershoek, Kloovenberg is known for its wines, some of which are imported to the United States. But here in South Africa it is also known for its olives. Over the last five years the owners have expanded their olive line from green and black olives and olive oil to olive tapenades, olive chutneys and olive based bath and body products including soap, skin softeners and body massage oils. They also produce apricot and grape jams, and they are yummy.

As the sun dimmed on the horizon, we returned to Cape Town, amazed at how far from the city we could see Table Mountain. It provided the beacon that drew us back.

Love to all from Cape Town,

Betsy and Floyd

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Cape of Good Hope

Greetings from Cape Town,

Planning activities can be an iffy thing due to the winter weather here in the Cape. Several days ago it was brilliantly clear and 80 degrees. When it is that clear, the nighttime temperatures tend to drop into the 40’s. But winter is the rainy season so many days there are periods of cloudiness and rain. Then the temperatures vary from the low 50’s at night into the mid 60’s during the day. Not too bad compared to Chicago winters.

Friday we awoke to a partly cloudy morning and decided to gamble on the weather remaining nice enough for us to visit the Cape of Good Hope National Park. We packed up our cameras, jackets, sweaters and rain gear and took off. The road between Cape Town and Cape Point passes through several seaside towns and runs along the shore of False Bay, so named by the explorers who drew the maps. Sailors rounding the horn of Africa would turn north thinking they were on the way to Europe, soon discovering they turned a mite too early.

It’s a very scenic drive with many spots to stop and look for whales or sharks. Stopping is the appropriate action as it can be quite dangerous for the driver to sightsee while navigating the winding mountain road. That was made clear to us as we rounded a curve and encountered a troop of baboons. Passing them, within seconds, we came upon an accident scene where the driver of a small pickup (bakkie) had gone off the road and was hanging at an angle over the side of the mountain. He was safe and on the cell phone, calling for help, with a sheepish look on his face. We guessed that he was traveling too fast when he came upon the baboons and got into trouble avoiding them.

We always stop at the visitors’ center in the park for two reasons: it has restrooms, and I need to take these two pictures again. The cedar tree is such a wild and wind-blown thing and I take a picture of it on every visit. The vista photo shows the mountain range across the bay. In the foreground are the white sand dunes and we’ve seen baboons, ostrich, and bontebok moving through them. The monument on the shoreline was erected to honor one of the early Portuguese explorers, Vasco da Gama (1460-1524). Another monument, to Bartholomew Diaz (1451-1500), is on the other side of the peninsula.

We continued driving slowly, watching for flowers and game. This is the season of rain so the fynbos is green and healthy. Not too many flowers here on the rocky Cape of Good Hope peninsula; just some white Erica and a few Protea. We stopped to watch the waves and sea birds for awhile. It is quite soothing to watch and listen.

Then we went on up to the main facilities at Cape Point for lunch. Taking a chance on the weather, we chose an outdoor table on the patio overlooking the bay. It turned out to be a good choice, despite the cool weather and a good breeze, because of the busloads of Chinese tourists who settled into the inside restaurant and were very excited and talkative. We enjoyed the outdoors, the quiet, the birds, and the play of the light through the clouds on the ocean and the mountains.

It was a very nice day, peaceful and leisurely, with moments of excitement and meditation. We wish all of you the same.

Floyd & Betsy

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

What Is It?

Greetings from Cape Town!

Today I offer you a quiz. Is the object in the following picture animal, vegetable or mineral? There used to be a television quiz show that asked that question but I forget the name of the show (20 questions?). Anyway, here it is:

I’ve seen similar things while on beach walks, but that doesn’t answer the question. I’ve seen similar things at our ESCONI (Earth Sciences Club of Northern Illinois) meetings, but that also begs the question. Could it be a fossil? Perhaps – a ginkgo is a living fossil.

I love the octagonal shape. Reminds me of one of my mineralogy mentors, John Ade, and his insistence that we learn to appreciate the crystal systems. Reminds me also of a sea urchin. Reminds me that God has a sense of humor.

Once you’ve answered the base question, the real question becomes “What in the world is its name?”


The Answer

It wasn’t very fair of me to not give any clues, just some confusing possibilities. Nothing as to size, provenance, flavor – nothing. There were some fun guesses that I want to share with you before we get to the answer:

a Jelly Fish
an exotic mushroom
some type of animal, most likely a sea creature of some sort
Looks like a plant to me – kind of like a spine-less cactus
Looks to me like a peyote button, but then, what would I know
an animal
a sand dollar
Martian girl turned upside down! Dated one once
Could be a sea anemone with tentacles drawn in
Could be a succulent of some kind

The two who came closest were reading me and my tendencies along with the picture. It is a plant, not a cactus, but a succulent in the genus Euphorbia. Google Euphorbia obesa or go to Wikipedia to see more photos and detailed descriptions. The genus Euphorbia is one of the successful ones with, at last count, 2160 species. It is a diverse species but they have one thing in common; their sap is toxic to one degree or another and has been used as a purgative.

Now wasn’t that fun?


Thursday, July 2, 2009


Dear Friends and Family,

Lately I’ve been thinking a lot about privacy. Not the kind of privacy we think about in the States when we argue we have a constitutional right to privacy; or privacy of health records, or privacy from search and seizure without cause. I’m thinking about personal privacy – the privacy you get when you shut the bathroom door, or take a bath, or as a teenager go to your bedroom and lock your brothers and sisters out of your personal space. It is something most of us take for granted.

This all started last week when Floyd and I talked Ted, a tour guide friend, into taking us to Langa. We wanted to take two theology students from Duke University to visit a school there so we, and they, could get an understanding of what it was like in a public primary school system in a township.

Langa is the oldest township in the Cape Town area. It originated when the citizens of Cape Town moved the colored and black workers, specifically men, out of the city into barrack structures (which they today call hostels or dormitories). Only men were allowed to live there at the time. Women were put in jail if they were caught visiting. The conditions were much like the conditions found within the South African mining industry today. Men leave their families to work in the mines, live in male only barracks/hostels, send home monies, and return home about once a year to reconnect with their wives and children. It is still a bad situation. Later I was told the unrest and strikes by miners over conditions were what started the end of the apartheid movement, but I digress.

First we visited the Langa primary school Siyabulela where children, mostly from the informal settlements (shacks), surrounding Langa are educated. The original families in Langa often are working and live in small brick or concrete homes (often with shacks in back for relatives) and can send their children away from the community for school because they have money. The principal, Sheila Galo, related the children coming to Siyabulela now are often from other countries or from the East coast of

South Africa, where homes are spread out and the children often don’t attend school because there is none close by. Most of these children have never held or seen a book when they enter school. Needless to say, they don’t read and the problem was exacerbated over the last few years by the Department of Education ruling it was not
required that the children learn to read or write in school. They have since changed their minds. More on this later.

After leaving there we stopped to get a guide for a walking tour of part of the township. Anthony took us first to the town marker, a large tile fresco, commemorating the history of Langa. It says, “The main barracks consisted of 84 dormitories each with 24 concrete bunks. Langa was build to accommodate the migrant labour population.” So we went deeper into Langa; our goal, the hostels/dormitories.

We went by the women cooking vats of “smileys”, heads of sheep with their tongues hanging out, a staple of the local diet, then past the ladies butchering the heads of cows. You can see a cow jaw bone in the picture below. It seems in this region the poor eat the least desirable pieces of meat when they can afford them. Not a vegetable in sight. Did I mention I am off meat at the moment?

In the picture you can also see some rehabbed dormitory buildings in the background. But many are not rehabbed, and Anthony wanted us to see ones in their original condition. So we climbed over some rubble on our way into a nearby courtyard and entered the common area of a hostel/dormitory.

The common area was a dark, moldy room with two stone picnic-like tables covered in old wood. There was very small sink. That sink provided the only water source for the barracks. In a small area there was one toilet (literally) without a door for all six rooms on the floor and one shower stall without a curtain. You had to climb through the shower literally to get to the toilet. Without any form of privacy I wondered how any used the shower. Also there was only cold water so it is doubtful many used the shower in the winter anyway, since it is often in the 40s here at night and even we do not have heaters. One refrigerator was provided for all.

On the other side of the common room was a small cooking area for everyone’s use. Now you might be thinking that there is clearly not much privacy, or wondering how so many people can share one toilet, but the shock was yet to come.

Anthony insisted we see the inside of one of the rooms and opened a door to greet someone. There were 6 narrow beds in the room: 3 upper bunks and 3 lower. One man was still in his bed wrapped tightly in his pink blankets to get warm. The other two families were out. We learned that one bed slept seven, a couple with their five children; on the other was a family of six in a room with just enough width between the beds for one small dresser. All of one family would have to be in bed before another could walk into the small space. In actuality not all of the family of seven could fit on the bed either so the children slept in the narrow space on the floor or outside when the weather was better.

Each family’s meager possessions hung from the top bunks. The occupants of the room could not have stood up at the same time to get dressed! And there was mold everywhere.

So that is why I am thinking about privacy. I asked Anthony why anyone would let people view their room while they were still in bed, and he said in the hopes they would give him a small bit of money for food. It must be part of the tourist experience. The bed person also may have been left there to protect their meager possessions. I must admit to having been overwhelmed…and this is just one family of thousands of families who live like this…but there was more to come.

We continued walking through “Langawood”, so named by the locals because of the nice (by our standards incredibly small) brick homes with proper doors and bars on the windows and concrete slab front yards. By the way, the window bars are common. They are on properties everywhere; businesses, homes, flats, everywhere for security purposes. We then walked on into the Joe Slovo informal settlement.

Joe Slovo originally was settled with local South Africans, many of whom have since moved on. Now foreigners (i.e. people from other African countries) have moved into the open spaces and this has created tension. These people live in small shacks. In the picture above are four or five of the shacks in Joe Slovo all lined up next to each other in typical African fashion. These particular families sell bead and wood products to the tourists that happen by on township tours from under the front tarps on their homes. They were also happy to allow us into their homes so we could understand the conditions in which they are living.

There is no water or toilets in these shacks. Common port-a-potties sit in a line for their use on the edge of the settlement. Anthony said a big problem is there are so many people who use them and they are only emptied once or twice a week, if the settlement is lucky. Some shacks have electricity lines, but electricity is often too expensive for most of these families and electricity has to be paid for before use.

Inside the shack we visited, a metal cabinet held a few small lanterns and dishes. There was a hot plate for cooking, but no other source of heat. Like the people in the hostels/dormitories the primary focus of the shack – which was separated into two rooms by curtains – was the beds, with lots of bedding to keep these people warm. It is like camping out forever without any hope of moving on. And it is very dangerous because most of the crimes in South Africa are crimes of property and rape and there is often only a thin curtain or wood slats between you and those outside.

And so, though in my mind the settlement with a curtain might be better in terms of privacy, in reality the hostels sleeping 13 to a small room might be the more desirable location because at least those families had a door. Imagine!

Blessings to all from South Africa,